bittersweet symphony
— black cocoa cutout cookies
the perfect harmony of dark nostalgia and bright sweetness in a buttery soft no-spread cutout cookie
Black cocoa became all the rage a few years ago, so much so that it seemed like a new invention. The reality? One taste and you realize you’ve known this flavor your entire life — in the world’s most popular sandwich cookie.
There’s almost nothing I love more than nostalgia. For these cookies, I’ve counter that darkest of bittersweet cocoa flavors with a bright-sweet hint of orange, because it’s intrinsically human to think of the past as sweeter than it was.
I’ve been on a bit of a quest to simplify my rolled cutout cookie recipe as much as possible, and I’ve finally succeeded. This particular version actually has more ingredients than the definitive base recipe, which will make an appearance from time to time on these pages, but it’s still an easy process. Basic ingredients, only a 30-minute chill time, no need to freeze after cutting out shapes, and the most truly no-spead cookie I’ve baked (while remaining soft and buttery).
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bittersweet symphony
— black cocoa cutout cookies
makes 24
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INGREDIENTS
2 + 1/2 cups (325g) good all-purpose flour
1/2 cup black cocoa powder, sifted
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup salted butter, softened
1/2 cup (96g) shortening
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 egg + 1 yolk, room temperature
1 teaspoon good-quality pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pure orange extract
INstructionS
In a medium-large bowl, whisk the dry ingredients thoroughly and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, shortening and sugars just until smooth.
Add the egg and extracts and mix until well incorporated.
Add the flour mixture in thirds and mix on low/medium-low until incorporated. Give bowl and paddle a scrape, then mix on medium-low for 30 seconds (the dough should begin to pull away from bowl).
Scoop the dough out onto a length of plastic wrap, shape into a flattened ball, wrap it tightly, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350° with the rack set in the center. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Roll out the dough to 1/4” thickness between sheets of parchment paper. Use a cookie cutter to cut out desired shape(s). Place cutout cookies two inches apart onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 9-12 minutes (adjust based on cookie cutter size), until the tops of the cookies look just barely dry in the center.
Remove from the oven and allow cookies to cool on the pan for 5-8 minutes before transferring to wire racks to cool completely.
Let cookies cool for at least 1 hour or overnight before decorating.